Mythologies of the Baining Tribe

The Baining tribe are among the earliest continuously located inhabitants of the Gazelle Peninsula of East New Britain, Papua New Guinea; they currently live in the Baining Mountains, from which they take their name. The Baining are thought to have been driven to this area in comparatively recent times by the Tolai tribes who migrated to the coastal areas. The Baining migration inland may also have been influenced by major volcanic activity taking place over the centuries around the present day town of Rabaul on the north-east coast. The Baining languages are a distinct language family spoken by the Baining. They are possibly related to the Taulil–Butam languages as well as to extinct Makolkol. The label 'Baining' was originally applied to speakers of Qaqet, the first group in regular contact with administrators and missionaries, and the language family was originally classed as dialects of a single language. The wider genetic affiliation of the languages is unclear and they are usually classed negatively as non-Austronesian and non-Oceanic. The Baining people are likely the original inhabitants of the Gazelle peninsula. Their more recent history was defined by the arrival on the coast of Tolai immigrants, who subjugated adjacent Baining communities and subjected others to raids. With the additional stress of epidemics and forced acculturation, mid 20th century missionaries spoke of the Baining as a "dying" people, but the community has since recovered. Colonial administrators forced the Baining into settled villages, changing their previous semi-nomadic lifestyle, though their cultivation methods remained mostly unchanged.

One of the oldest of the Papua New Guinea tribes, the Baining tribe lives amongst the Baining Mountains, on the Papua New Guinea island of New Britain. One of the defining customs of the Baining People is their artwork and colourful costumed masks. Arguably the most defining triable performance in all of Papua New Guinea, the Baining tribe perform a compelling fire dance, where young men paint their skin white and put on elaborate masks with painted spiralling eyes and large lips. Made from giant bamboo and bark, these masks are just as big as the people themselves and create a sight that you will not forget in a hurry. While wearing the masks, the Baining jump in and around huge bonfires, creating a deep connection with the spirits

The Baining, whose name is derived from the Bainin mountains where they live, are believed to be the original inhabitants of the peninsula. Another tribe, the Tolai people, are thought to have subsequently migrated to East New Britain from New Ireland. Conflicts between the two tribes ended with the Tolai gravitating toward the more amenable coastal areas forcing the Baining to retreat to the safety of the mountains. Hence, their Tolai nickname “the bush people.” This inland migration of the Baining may have been further predicated by the extensive volcanic activity around the former capital, Rabaul. The capital of East New Britain is Kokopo, which replaced the former capital, Rabaul. Rabaul was largely destroyed in a volcanic eruption in 1994, necessitating the move. Approximately an hour’s drive from Kokopo, lies the village of Gaulim, home to the intriguing Baining people. East New Britain is part of the Gazelle Peninsula and consists of the north-eastern part of the island of New Britain and the Duke of York Islands. East New Britain covers a total land area of 6,107 square miles and, as of the 2,000 census, has an estimated population of 220,133.

In the middle of a grass field, there’s a bonfire emanating from a large pile of wood. The flames crackle and pop as they expand over the logs and branches strewn across the heap. An old man prods and pokes at the wood with an extraordinarily long stick, causing a few fading flames to reignite sleepily. Suddenly a slow, rhythmic drumbeat begins and a chorus chants. The sound is deep, raw and tribal as a figure emerges out of the darkness with his naked legs, arms and torso barely visible. His profile begins to take form as he walks confidently towards the bonfire. The man wears a few Raffia palm leaves and his skin appears to be painted white. Hiding his face is an elaborate and eerie-looking mask with big spiraling eyes and large protruding lips. He jogs towards the fire, his toned calf muscles flexing. He finally reaches it and then leaps into the air. His feet miss the flames by inches. Little is known about the Baining community of Papua New Guinea, including the reason behind their distinct tribal gatherings. I naturally think of this particular occasion as a ceremony, as it certainly feels like one, with the congregated crowd and the community of men dressed for the event.

The Baining people got their name from the mountains where they live. While they are believed to be the initial inhabitants of the Gazelle Peninsula one theory has it that the Tolai people, who had later migrated to East New Britain from New Ireland, forced the Baining to retrieve deep into the mountains. Their base deep in the jungle also earned them their Tolai nickname - "bush people". Arriving at our destination - in what could correctly be described as "the bush" - we found ourselves surrounded by trees and in complete darkness. Fortunately, we were among the first tourists to arrive, and although there were chairs in place for the tourists we chose a spot on the ground just a couple of meters from the bonfire in the middle of the field. We had to keep a certain distance from the bonfire, as we were warned that both ashes and pieces of flaming wood might fly our way. The burning fire and the star-filled night sky was a magical backdrop for the chanting crowd and the Baining dancers - a sight only a few get to witness. This dance is only performed on special occasions such as the commemoration of the dead, as a celebration of childbirth or after a successful harvest. And indeed it is an exclusive sight - Traditionally even Baining women and girls were kept from watching. The fire dancers are wearing masks that represent forest spirits, and these were believed to bring harm to women and girls.

The firedancers in the first two shots belong to a Papua New Guinean tribe known as the Baining. They live on the northeastern tip of the island of New Britain which is found off the west coast of Papua New Guinea. The Baining tribes get their name from the Baining mountains which they inhabit. Their language is also called Baining, of which their are a few different dialects. It is thought that the Baining people may have inhabited this area for thousands of years. The Baining are somewhat of an of an oddity amongst Melanesian cultures because they create art forms that have a very ephemeral existence. The mask you see in shot two is laboriously made from bark cloth, bamboo, and leaves, and used just once for the firedance ceremony before being thrown away or destroyed.

The Baining are famous for their traditional Fire Dance, one of the most iconic performances by any tribe throughout Papua New Guinea, and tonight my group and I were being treated to a private showing. The complete darkness outside only added to the mystery of where we were going. Our final destination was to be a village which is home to the Baining people, named after the mountains they inhabit. Some say they were driven into the hills by the active Tavurvur and Vulcan volcanoes, both of which almost completely destroyed the town of Rabaul during the eruption in 1994. I however prefer the more sinister tale of the Baining group being forced into hiding by their rivals the Tolai, represented by the secret society of the Duk-Duk, whose traditional costumes are so alien they are almost cartoon like in appearance. But more on them later. In Baining culture the Fire Dance is performed on various special occasions, including the birth of new children in the village, remembering the dead, as well as being a coming of age ceremony for young men entering adulthood. Traditionally it has been an event for males only, with women not even permitted to watch. However on this occasion every man, woman and child not participating in the ceremony were glued to proceedings, and as the stack of wood dwindled and the fire died down, they all rose to their feet and joined in with the dancing, keeping impeccable timing with the constant hypnotic banging of the bamboo sticks. Once we had run out of things to burn, the show concluded with all of our masked entertainers running through the fire with extra gusto, stamping on the dying embers with their bare feet until all went black. In years past the performers would prolong the ceremony by burning their oversized headwear, but I was glad that the masks were spared, as it would have been a shame to see something so beautiful burned in the honor of me and my traveling companions. It was a fascinating end to an absorbing performance, and on the drive back to the hotel I was able to reflect on what a privilege it had been to witness something which until fairly recently was relatively unknown to the wider world.

An ancient fire dance ritual performed to summon the spirit world, the Baining Firedance has long mystified and captured the imaginations of those lucky enough to witness it. Dancers perform to welcome births, celebrate the start or end of the harvest, to remember the dead and to initiate young men into adulthood. Once taboo and only witnessed by the men of the tribe, the Baining Firedance has most recently been brought to light with the festival held in late September for travellers to witness. It is a cultural spectacle that awakens all the senses, and I was lucky to be there in the thick of it. The festival is based in East New Britain province and is held across two days. The unique cultures and subcultures on display at the Firedance Festival give an insight into how diverse the region is. There are over 50 masked performances and each one is as exclusive as the other. What makes this festival different to some of the more popular and longer-running festivals, like the Mt Hagen Show, the Tumbuan Mask Festival and the Goroka Show, is that it is a community-driven initiative. Unlike other festivals and events in Papua New Guinea where the showground is within town, this festival takes you directly into the villages.